When it comes to news, despite swapping economic doom to an explosive boom it’s clear that Asia is no Shangri-La. “We hope this will be a weapon of peace not a weapon of war” quipped a government spokesperson for India on BBC Worldwide after their successful nuclear missile launch a few weeks ago. Erm, weapon of peace?
On the other hand it’s been inspiring to note that when it comes to tourism, sustainability actually is everywhere. In the past weeks I and Elina have dyed silk scarves made by Laotian village women, who receive a fair wage and free English lessons and eaten in training restaurants for former street kids learning professional culinary skills. We’ve just returned from zip lining in Bokeo Nature Reserve with Gibbon Experience, a conservation project employing locals away from the slash-and-burn logging, farming and poaching that has previously provided livelihoods. This is sustainability made fun; we’re spoilt for choice and there is an air of innovation in these projects.
But a few weeks ago in Sihanoukville, a Cambodian beach town with a lively nightlife, I was brought back to ground and below from my world-saving, do-gooder happy place. Sun loungers by day, beach barbecues by night, I didn’t want to move away from the sound of the waves after finally reaching them. But what could’ve been an idyllic chill out scene shattered at nightfall as traders of bracelets and fresh fruit gave space to girls in their 20s with fake laughs and exaggerated body language. With spaghetti strap tops and miniskirts they didn’t reveal much more than I, but they seemed very far away from their own, modest culture, dancing to and being touched by Western men. Swallowing my dinner with unease I wanted to punch these men but I was scared to do so and I guess that wouldn’t have solved a lot. I wanted to make the situation better for the girls but before doing my research, I didn’t know how.
Lauri and Riikka send us to an organisation called COPE to learn about secret bombings in Laos conducted by the US during the Vietnam War. During that time this sleepy nation became the most bombed nation on earth with some 200 million tonnes of cluster bombs and other ammunition being dropped on its grounds. Unbelievably 30% of these bombs failed to detonate and today some 80 million of them still remain. With a thriving scrap metal business offering the chance to earn wages four times the national average these hidden explosives are sought for, and result in destroyed limbs and lives for children and adults alike. COPE is the only organisation in Laos providing prosthetics and mobility devices and they also train local physiotherapists. Their services are free for those who can’t afford to pay.
From seemingly almighty politicians and charity visionaries, randy tourists and responsible consumers I’m not stating anything new by saying it all comes down to choices. Wanting and fighting for a better society doesn’t need to mean being enlightened by a blinding light and changing all our wicked Western ways. But we need to believe in our own power as individuals to change the world for better – or for worse. From buying lunch to the way we interact with our loved ones, every decision has a consequence and although it’s impossible to always do the right thing – even if there is such a thing – trying might be the most epic journey of all.
